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| While we had wonderful meals at local restaurants, Mary longed to have a chance to do some home cooking after seeing all the items in the Tuscan shops. Guide Marco Valtriani, who organized the second leg of our visit, made sure we ate mostly where the locals ate, including a mountain roadhouse that specialized in traditional cinghiali (wild boar) stew. | |||
Olive groves and vineyards were everywhere, but we saw few olives in the stores. Almost all end up in wonderful olive oil. |
And the grapes were on the way to the winery or to make some for the family. |
Home wine press |
A Montepulciano winery. |
After driving through beautiful Tuscan forests, Marco stopped at ... |
Casentino Salumi, a generations-old father ... |
... and son operation, where sausages and other meats were prepared and cured. |
Here, Marco, right, helped us choose some salami and other cold meats for a picnic lunch. |
We also made a stop at MolinVecchio or Molino Grifoni, a 400-plus-year-old mill, producing stone ground flours and polenta. |
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Polenta on the hoof. |
Bagged and ready to go. |
We shared the dining room at the Corte dell 'Oca in Subbiano with family celebrations. |
Too bad we couldn't share this giant, delicious polenta dish. |
We parked in an olive grove ... |
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There was "fancy" food from time to time, such as this appetizer souffle |
Sometimes it was traditional fare presented artistically, such as prosciutto and melon at La Taverna Etrusca in Sorano, ... |
... where this chickpea puree with crayfish, was a special of the day. |
But more interesting was this very traditional thick soup, Ribollita, with a poached egg on top, served here at Agriturismo 3 Querce, aka Locando "Il Poderino." |
It was at Locanda "Il Poderino" that Marco introduced us to a traditional rustic appetizer, grilled bread with olive oil and rubbed with garlic and tomato, accompanied by prosciutto wrapped around fresh figs. |
. The figs, and much of the produce, came from the grounds of Il Poderino. |
Its driveway is lined with huge rosemary bushes. Beautifully kept and family-run, this was our favorite stay in Italy. |
The pomegranate were not quite ripe, but very picturesque. |
These knobbly "cherries," were not identified, but very tasty. |
Apparently a popular lunch in Pienza is crusty bread, split and filled with slabs of roasted pig |
. We opted for the Baccus L'Osteria and a simpler meal of pecorino (sheep milk cheese). pear, a drizzle of honey, and some lovely white wine |
. In Cortona, we chose La Grotta to try the prized Brunello wine with a simple supper. |
It was difficult to look and not buy when tempted by such delicious-looking produce ... |
... around almost every corner. |
Even fresh truffles ... |
... spices ... |
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. ... more pasta ... |
... even more pasts ... |
Or a little of everything .. |
... in case you forgot something. |
Plenty of cheese, as long as you like pecorino. |
More cheese, and sausge. |
. This sausage shop was in an old city wall in Assisi. |
These meringues were piled high ... |
and apparently a specialty of Assisi |
Chocolate was in ready supply, especially in Perugia. |
And, of course, thank goodness, lots of gelato. |
