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Enchanting Ecuador Mainland: Sept. 13-Oct. 3, 2005 Journal by Ruth Marie Lyons Guide: Charlie Gomez Packager: Neblina Forest
I. Getting Started: Yanacocha Ditch and the Middle of the World The decision to travel in Ecuador sprang from a discussion I had with Charlie Gomez during our 2003 trip to Costa Rica. For the past ten years Charlie has been guiding in Ecuador when it’s rainy season in Costa Rica. His suggestion that I contact Mercedes Rivadeniera and Xavier Muńoz of Neblina Forest (http://www.neblinaforest.com) in Quito, resulted in an excellent collaboration to set up an itinerary for a birding, natural history and cultural interaction trip. Our group consisted of good friends Mary & Jack Dodge of Port St. Lucie, FL, my husband Jimmy & myself, of Boulder, CO, plus Charlie (who acted as our guide on the Ecuadorian mainland) and Charlie’s good friend Marco Morales whom we quickly re-named “Eagle-Eye.” We traveled in the Neblina Forest van expertly driven by Edwin Herrera, who has worked for the company for 10 years. We were amazed to learn that the majority of people who visit Ecuador on holiday go only to the Galapagos Islands. It is a tragedy that they do not consider the mainland because the country has much to offer. We only scratched the surface during our three week stay! Hopefully this journal will help to encourage those who read it to choose to visit the interior as well. Top marks go to Neblina Forest. Every effort was made to provide for our safety and well-being throughout our stay. Tell them your desires or ask them for suggestions. They will do everything possible to make your holiday meaningful! Tuesday, Sept. 13: Hotel Sebastian, Quito: A travel day for all of us. Jimmy and I were the last to arrive at 11 p.m. Immigrations/customs formalities were no problem and the luggage was off loaded quickly. Charlie and Marco came to meet us along with Mercedes and Xavier which was definitely above and beyond the call of duty! By 1 a.m. we were bedded down at the Hotel Sebastian which is a nice, small hotel in the Mariscal Sucre section of Quito. Wednesday, Sept. 14: Hotel Sebastian, Quito: TIP: We had intentionally built in an “acclimation day” since Quito is located at 9,200 feet above sea level. Even though Jimmy and I came from 5,500 feet we could feel the difference. It was very evident to Mary, Jack, Charlie and Marco who came from sea level. After a late, leisurely breakfast (essentially our only one at leisure), the six of us headed for Rio Amazonas which is the main walking and shopping thoroughfare in the Mariscal Sucre (or new) section of the city. The sidewalks are wide and lined with a variety of shops, sidewalk cafes, vendors of all sorts and interesting sights to see. It was a fun morning. Mercedes arrived just before lunch to do a final “run through” of our itinerary and give us some last minute advice. After lunch we took two cabs and headed to the National Museum of the Central Bank of Ecuador to view the Pre-Columbian artifacts on display there. Unfortunately we were not allowed to photograph or video. The displays are very well presented and there are numerous interesting dioramas. (Note from Mary: If you're interested in the early civilizations of Ecuador, this is a must-see.) Thursday, Sept. 15: Hotel Sebastian, Quito: Breakfast at 5:30 a.m. and on the road at 6. Our morning of birding was in the area known as the Yanacocha Ditch which is a protected wildlife preserve. The road to the preserve was extremely rough passing through small settlements. As the drive continued upward, we could see Volcan Pichincha Our birding started slowly but picked up speed, and in the 3.5 hours we were there we saw 44 different birds! A box lunch had been prepared for us so we took a break from birding to eat. Afterwards we headed to La Mitad del Mundo (the Middle of the World Monument) which is supposed to be located on the equator (according to a survey done by a French team back in 1736), but is actually a few hundred meters off the mark. Picture taking was the order of the afternoon as each of us took turns straddling the line that runs through the huge monument. But when one is traveling with Charlie, “the antenna” for birds is always working, and we saw an absolutely beautiful Vermillion Flycatcher on the grounds of the monument as well as a Black-tailed Trainbearer Leaving the monument, Edwin headed the van westward toward a suburb of Quito where the home of Mercedes and Xavier is located. As we wound higher and higher, the city spread out below us. Passing through the gate, we were greeted by Mercedes’ two horses and nine dogs. Most of the dogs were rescued strays. All the family came out to warmly welcome us, but we will remember forever adorable Amelia, their 2 year old granddaughter who stole everyone’s heart. Settling down on the patio to mark our bird list before we lost the last of the afternoon light, we were treated to glasses of juice from the Tree Tomato plant. (http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/tree_tomato_pictures.htm) This was the first of many delicious juices we sampled during our time in Ecuador. Mercedes served us a typical meal which began with shrimp cerviche and popcorn. Interestingly enough, popcorn as well as plantain chips are served with cerviche of any sort in Ecuador. Our main course was roast beef, potatoes, rice, and peas & carrots. There was cake and ice cream for dessert. Mercedes told us that Ecuadorians usually eat three carbs with every meal – potatoes, rice and corn! We felt very privileged to have been invited to the home of Mercedes and Xavier. Throughout our time in Ecuador, they continued to treat us as friends rather than clients. II. Cochasqui Pyramids and Otavalo Friday, Sept. 16: Hotel Ali Shungu, Otavalo: Breakfast at 6:30 and on the road by 7:00, we headed to the ruins and pyramids of Cochasqui. This complex was built by the Cara Indians before the Inca conquest and are considered the most important archaeological site in the northern Andes of Ecuador. (http://www.crystalinks.com/pyramidecuador.html) The history of Cochasqui goes back from year 950 AD to the year 1550 AD with well differentiated periods defined by the types of pottery found by archaeologists Fifteen low, truncated, grass covered pyramids and about 30 other mounds are visible. The remarkable panoramic view from the site has led archaeologists to assume that Cochasqui was built for strategic purposes. Several other hypotheses have been formulated as well to explain the nature and purpose of this complex. Among them: 1) it was a ceremonial-ritual center; 2) it was a home compound for important native chiefs (caciques); 3) it was an astronomical center of observation. Presently the pyramids of Cochasqui are most frequently visited during the solar solstices and equinoxes, when local people gather to celebrate the passage of the sun. The solar seasons also indicate the time of sowing and harvesting. Potatoes, corn, beans and quinoa are the essential foods for the inhabitants of this part of the world. Shamans gather at the sacred site of the pyramids in order to bless the multitudes of people who come and to bless the coming harvests. The shamans believe the sun to be the true “giver” of life on our planet and that Cochasqui is a special place to honor the sun. The Cochasqui complex has an open air ethnographic museum which displays life sized homes modeled after indigenous architectural styles and using ancient methods of building. Inside there are indigenous furnishing and cooking utensils, while guinea pigs scurry around your feet. Outside gardens are planted with a large number of Andean plants that were used for medicinal, ceremonial and everyday purposes. There is also a small but informative museum. The pyramids are also home to a llama reproductive project, in an effort to continue the breeding of this animal that is so intrinsic a part of early Andean life. TIP: It is necessary to have a local guide who speaks Spanish when one visits Cochasqui. Our guide was very enthusiastic in his explanations, and we were fortunate to have Charlie act as our translator. There is a mystical aura to this place located high in a barren Andean plateau and directly under the equatorial path of the sun. The vast and unrelenting passage of time is represented here by the surrounding and watchful Andes and the vegetation coverage of the pyramids. Returning to the main highway, we headed north toward Otavalo. Actually we went through the town to a hacienda where we had a delicious lunch and an opportunity to bird the lovely grounds. The seven of us sat on the veranda to eat and it just so happened that our Spanish speakers, Charlie, Marco and Edwin were at the same end of the table as Mary. Now Mary knows more Spanish than the rest of us, and she managed to keep up her end of the conversation with the fellows which impressed me no end! The best part of the meal was sitting back and watching the four of them conversing and joking and me hardly understanding a word. It just made my heart sing to see Mary joining in with them! Returning to Otavalo, we checked in at the hotel which is the “only game in town” if you want to stay in town. My reason for staying there was that we wanted to visit the animal market early the next morning before going on to the regular market on the main plaza. By staying at the Ali Shungu, we were able to easily do this. If this doesn’t appeal to you, then I would suggest you stay at one of the haciendas located outside of town. Although the Ali Shungu is a nice hotel with a lovely garden and delicious food, these things are overshadowed by the unpleasant personality and attitude of the owner. Even though our rooms had been prepaid, she felt she had to impress upon each of us that the money had not been transferred to her account until that very day! Just a “word to the wise” here. As I have said, the Ali Shungu kitchen turns out very nice dishes. That night I ordered the Vegetarian Enchilada as I was intrigued by the description. It was not what we think of as an enchilada at all but a very tasty casserole of black beans and other veggies with a topping of shredded cheese, avocado and sour cream. It came with tortilla chips on the side. It took Charlie helping me and we still did not finish the dish! Saturday, Sept. 17: Hacienda La Cienega, Lasso: (http://www.geocities.com/haciendaec/index.html) We arose early to visit the animal market in Otavalo. Met Charlie, Marco and Edwin at 6:30 a.m. for a cup of coffee before walking a half mile to the area where the market is held. Mary and Jack chose to sleep in that morning. Obviously squealing pigs and mooing cows did not have enough pizzaz to draw them from a warm bed. The market was amazing! Most important was watching where one stepped. Pigs, cows, bulls, horses and sheep were the order of the day along with food stalls where we saw suckling pig being roasted, bread and fish being fried as well as corn being roasted. The local folks were bargaining for livestock and enjoying “eating out” at the same time. Not many tourists here but a few local ladies were singling us out in order to sell their wares. I actually purchased the majority of my gifts from one darling young lady while all around us pigs were squealing and cows were mooing. She had the most beautiful shawls (which of course were available in the plaza market also) so I decided to deal with her so that I’d be able to concentrate on looking once we got to the plaza. We walked back to the hotel through a portion of town passing a small shop where two fellows were wood working, making the charangos, which are used by Andean musicians. They invited us to come into their workplace and explained how they did the work, showing us their tools and demonstrating for us. These charangos are also made of armadillo shells which have been soaked in water to make them pliable so that they can be shaped around the forms. Edwin picked up a guitar and Marco strummed one of the charangos as the younger workman picked out a tune on his instrument. These sorts of interactions are what make traveling in a small group with friends so appealing. Back at the hotel we had breakfast with Mary and Jack, checked out, loaded the van and headed to the parking lot near the plaza. It’s called Poncho Plaza and even at 8:30 in the morning it was alive and teeming with vendors. Thankfully the day trippers from Quito had not yet arrived so we were able to move about with ease. In addition to the stalls selling textiles, jewelry, clothing, wooden masks, Panama hats (which are actually made in Ecuador), on Saturdays there are vendors with vegetables, fruits, chickens (alive as well as dressed), cuts of various meats, and already prepared foods. I was enchanted just walking up and down the rows looking at all that was available. The Otavaleanos continue to wear their native dress on an everyday basis so this added color and variety to the market. By mid morning everyone had made their purchases and we got underway just as the market was getting too crowded to be comfortable. Heading south toward Cotapaxi, we made a stop at Lago San Pablo to see the Andean Ducks that were bouncing on the waves there. It was quite windy which caused actual white caps to form on the small lake. Another stop was made at a place where biscochas were being made. This word is associated with a crispy little snack in Costa Rica that one can buy as one buys potato chips here in the US. In Ecuador, the word is also used to denote a snack, but it is quite different to the Costa Rican one. More like a little cake or sweet bread. Edwin knew of a place on our route where biscochas were made so he stopped for us to have a taste. Young people were rolling the dough and forming it as well as doing the cooking right in the room where there were tables set up for tasting. Some of the biscochas had a spoonful of jam put inside; others were plain and if you ordered those, jam was brought to the table. It was a delightful break and the view of Volcan Cayambe was quite clear from the road so Jack and Jimmy made sure they got a few shots. Lunch that day was at a roadside restaurant serving local food. We were fascinated by the toasted corn kernels that appeared on the table as soon as we sat down. Yummy! And they are called “tostado” which is certainly a different use of the word for us. I indulged in Locro, which is a potato and cheese soup garnished with avocado. Quite filling and delicious! A little later we entered the small village of Lasso near where our hacienda for the night, La Cienega, is located. The 400-year-old hacienda was converted into a hotel in 1982 with colonial and 19th century furnishings. There is a lovely chapel with intricately carved doors and a courtyard with fountain. We birded the grounds for an hour or so. Marco immediately found a nesting Barn Owl in a big tree in the courtyard. Numerous hummingbirds were in the gardens, including the tiny White-bellied Woodstar that I referred to as the bumble bee hummer because of its size and mannerisms. In the wetland nearby we found rails and a Grass (or Sedge) Wren. The public rooms of the hacienda were large and grand. We found one with a fire blazing in the fireplace and settled down to mark our bird list. The dining room also had a cozy fire burning which gave the room a friendly glow. The food was very good and we enjoyed each other’s company until it was time to turn in for the night. III. Mount Cotopaxi, Papallacta and San Isidro Sunday, Sept. 18: Termas Papallacta, Papallacta Pass: (http://www.papallacta.com.ec/index_fl.html) Up at 5:30 a.m. and out at 6 to bird before breakfast. We saw a Peruvian Meadow Lark which is absolutely stunning! By 8:15 we were loaded up and heading out for Cotopaxi National Park. As we climbed higher nearing the park entrance, it was totally socked in, and I was fearful that we would never see the peak. The park gives one a good look at the paramo. Centerpiece of the park is the beautifully cone-shaped, snow-capped volcano Cotopaxi which is Ecuador’s second highest peak. Presently volcanic activity is limited to a few gently smoking fumaroles that cannot be seen unless you are a mountaineer peering into the crater. However, in the past few centuries there have been numerous violent eruptions. There are several other peaks within the park, of which Ruminahui is the most important. Birding as we worked our way up the rough road, the sun began to break through, and we finally saw an Ecuadorian Hillstar, thanks to Charlie! We had a picnic lunch at 14,600 feet attempting to shelter ourselves from the wind which was blowing mercilessly. Altitude sickness is a very real danger and even though we had spent several days acclimatizing and working our way up slowly, it hit Mary with a vengeance. Edwin managed to find a way out of the park and we headed toward Papallacta Pass where the thermal springs and our next hotel were located. Mary worked to keep from getting dehydrated and went right to bed as soon as we arrived. It was unfortunate that she did not get to enjoy the thermal springs because they were located right outside our door and were very soothing. The Termas Papallacta was one of my favorite lodges because of the springs and the landscaping of the grounds. Monday, Sept. 19: San Isidro Lodge(aka Cabanas San Isidro), near Cosanga: (http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/sanisidro/index.htm) Jack and Mary slept in as she was still recuperating while Charlie, Marco, Edwin, Jim and I had coffee and crackers at 5:30 before setting off to find the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. Dressed in every piece of warm clothing we had, we climbed back up to the top of Papallacta Pass and turned off onto a road that was quite rough and led up to some towers. It was very foggy and cold. The wind was blowing hard and the clouds were swirling around us as Charlie came running back along the track to tell us he and Edwin had spotted a pair of the birds! We hurried to the spot, and it was difficult to catch my breath as we were again at 14,600 feet. What beautiful creatures! The mist continued to roll in as we shivered and watched them hunting for seeds. Jim muttered that it was “colder than a Norse hell” as he filmed. We stayed about 10 minutes watching the Seedsnipes and then hurried back to the van. Coming down a little, we broke through the clouds and Volcan Antisana was beautiful in the distance in all her glory! We searched for condors but none were to be found that morning. Many other birds were sighted however so all in all it was a great start to what would be quite a day from the birding standpoint. Papallacta Pass, which is the highest easily accessible point in Ecuador, links Quito and the lowland rainforest with an excellent selection of montane species. The pass has large areas of paramo and also supports scattered patches of Polylepis woodland. A bit lower down elfin forest and montane cloudforest occur. We made it back to the lodge at 10 and they were kind enough to still serve us breakfast. A good thing since all of us were starved by that time. Mary was up and about but still feeling a bit under the weather. All of us had worried about her so it was a blessing to see her smile. Leaving the lodge about 11 a.m. we continued eastward toward Guango Lodge where we were to have a late lunch. The reason for stopping at Guango was because of their hummingbird feeders. We were NOT disappointed. Arriving about 11:30 a.m., we birded for two hours in an area that wasn’t even as large as our backyard. There were hummers everywhere! It was difficult to know where to look! Our lunch was worth the wait and the “work” of birding the feeders. We began with cream of onion soup which had a touch of curry powder that gave it a distinctive flavor. The main course was a cured ham chop, rice cooked with herbs and cauliflower salad. Dessert was a cake made of plantains. Guango Lodge is owned and operated by the Bustamante family. We were headed to Cabanas San Isidro for the next three nights which is owned and operated by Carmen Bustamante (daughter of the Guango Lodge Bustamantes) and her husband Mitch Lysinger, who is a well known guide in the birding world. As we headed east toward the towns of Baeza and Cosanga, it began to rain lightly. Just as we arrived at the Cabanas, the bottom dropped out. For about 2 hours it poured. We made a mad dash to our cabins only to find the electricity was off. Enough light was coming through the windows that we were able to deal with the luggage which Marco, Edwin and Charlie brought to us through the pouring rain – bless their hearts! The cabin was very nice with 2 double beds and a sitting area plus a small outdoor balcony. The closet was a large alcove with shelves and hanging space. The shelves were the right height to place one’s bag so that it was easy to unpack. Much thought went into planning the layout. There was hot water in the shower so what more could one want! As the afternoon light was waning, the electricity came back on. We took our flashlights and met at the dining room to mark our bird list and have dinner. As Charlie led us through all the wonderful birds we had seen that day, the manager of the lodge came with a tray of drinks for us – hot drinks! We were still a bit chilly from the rain so our introduction to the delicious Canelazo was doubly nice. Made of local rum-type alcohol, passion fruit juice and cinnamon, it was the perfect hot drink and felt very nice going down. Dinner was delicious, and as we snuggled down to sleep we were glad that we were going to be spending three nights here. Tuesday, Sept. 20: San Isidro Lodge: Breakfast at 7 a.m. – we got to sleep in! Well, getting up at 7 a.m. is what passes for sleeping in when Charlie is your guide. At 8:30 we were out in the countryside to bird a road. It worked this way: Edwin stopped the van, we all got out and began walking slowly, looking for what might be in the area. After a while Edwin went back to the van and drove it forward to where we had walked. This continued until we finished and then the van was waiting right there to take us back to our lodge. After lunch we rested till 3 p.m. and then did another area using the same technique as this morning. We had canelazo after dinner. Perfect drink for putting one to sleep! Jim went with Charlie, Marco and Edwin to look for the San Isidro Owl tonight. This is actually a newly discovered owl and has not yet been named so everyone just calls it by the name of the lodge since it was first sighted here. Wednesday, Sept. 21: San Isidro Lodge: Breakfast at 6 this morning – no more sleeping in! It was time to check out the bird life in the Gaucamayos Range, which is a part of the Antisana Reserve, and not very far from our Lodge. This is a protected area but the bird life seemed very scarce. When we returned to the lodge for lunch the manager told us that he had gotten word that the Reventazon Volcano had erupted yesterday and it was possible that the birds had flown because of this. Everyone had a rest after lunch before we headed out on one of the trails near the Lodge. Jim was fighting a cold so Charlie “ordered” him to stay in bed while the rest of us headed into the forest. Again the birds were scarce, but we did manage a female Cock-of-the-rock which was a deep orange color. An opportunity to visit a lek might arise later in the trip so maybe we’ll get to see a male as well. Another delicious dinner and an enjoyable evening checking our bird lists and chatting with the staff at the Lodge. We were the only visitors and they did everything they could to make us welcomed. They have a laundry service and we made full use of it. TIP: Get a head start on recognizing the songs of the birds of the San Isidro area with this two-cassette set, recorded with one of owners of the lodge: http://johnvmoorenaturerecordings.com/pubs/CabanasSanIsidro/main.htm Thursday, Sept. 22: Hotel Sebastian, Quito: After breakfast we departed, heading back to Quito. When we reached the Papallacta Pass area, Charlie had Edwin turn off onto one of the side roads. Our views of Antisana were wonderful as it was an almost cloudless day. Birding there, we spotted Andean Condors spiraling up on the currents. What a sight! Other birds were in evidence as well and we had our box lunch in a breezy sunny spot. All of a sudden, out of nowhere appeared a small dog. It was evident that he had not had too many good meals so we took pity on him and shared our lunches. Returning to Quito and Hotel Sebastian, we heard from Mercedes that our flight to the lowlands the next day might be impacted by the ashes from Reventazon Volcano. After dinner we repacked our bags because we have a 20 pound per person limit on the plane that takes us to Coco. All but a small duffel will be left in storage at the hotel. IV: Napo Wildlife Center Friday, Sept. 23: Napo Wildlife Center, Amazon: (http://www.napowildlifecenter.com/ Please visit the web site to learn about this unusual lodge which is a cooperative between the local Quichuas and a non-profit eco organization – all the other lodges on the river are run by hotels) We awoke to find that we were on schedule for flying to Coca. This was great news! At the airport Julio of the Napo Wildlife Center’s local office was waiting. He and Charlie took care of getting us checked in and our luggage tagged and boarded without us having to stand in line! When we got into the security line, Charlie explained to the screener that I had an artificial knee. This kept me from having to go through the scanner. They just took me aside and patted me down. We were met in Coca by Oscar who is a local guide at the Center. Charlie was very happy to see Oscar as they met in 1993 when Charlie came to Ecuador for the very first time. Our transportation from the little airport to the waterfront was in Chevy taxi trucks. In addition to our small bags, the flight had also brought supplies for the various lodges along the river as well as a duffel full of school supplies that Mary and I had brought for the local school at the NWC. We had a wild ride through Coca which is definitely a frontier oil town. Our boat, a covered motorized dugout, was fueling so there was a wait once we were dropped at the dock. One of the local fellows was given the task of watching the luggage, and we headed off to stretch our legs and do a bit of birding with Oscar in the lead. When our boat, the Giant Otter, arrived from the fuel depot, items bought in Coca were loaded as well as our luggage and any supplies that had come from Quito. These were at the back of the boat near Jorge who manned the motor. Then there was a place for several guys who helped operate the boat. In the front half of the boat were seats with cushions for passengers. Before boarding we were handed life vests to wear. Joining us in the front of the boat were Giovanny Rivadeniera, his wife Marta and their little boy, Daniel. Giovanny is one of the village elders and a phenomenal birder. Collaborator with John V. Moore, in the Sounds of La Selva, Sound of the Northwest and other audio publications dealing with Ecuador, Giovanny is one of those amazing human beings who has taught himself about the birds. He has been heartily involved in the Napo Wildlife Center Project. As we settled in the boat for our two hour ride on the Napo River, Ziploc bags appeared with lunch in them. Two sandwiches, chips, a box of juice, a bottle of water, a pear and a candy bar filled the bag. We shared with the local people on the boat as this lunch had been sent by the lodge for the “tourists.” This was the beginning of the dry season so the river was dropping. There were sandbars that had to be avoided and Jorge did a fine job of guiding the boat between and around them. We picked up speed and began our journey downriver stopping twice as we neared our destination to let some of the local people off close to their homes. When we neared the drop off point, we had to get out of the boat and walk across a sandbar and then through a jungle area to reach the tributary where we would board real dugout canoes. This area belonged to the village and contained a plot of bananas and cassavas. Getting into the dugouts took a certain amount of panache - something for which I am not noted! Needless to say, I am thankful that Jim did not video me getting into or out of that canoe. One sits very low with bent knees and this was the most difficult thing I did on the trip. When the pressure got too great on my knees, I rested my legs on the edge of the canoe so that I could straighten them out. The absolutely most difficult part came when I had to get out! With help from Marco and Luis, the lodge manager, I made it, but it was NOT a pretty site. As the days passed, I developed a method to get in and out that made it a bit easier, but it was never graceful! The journey to the Lodge took another 2.5 hours as we birded along the way and we were going upstream. Jorge was in the front and a young man whom we named “Motocito” was in the back. There was an extra paddle and every now and then Oscar would join in to help move us forward. We saw many birds along the way including the Hoatzin which was one I’d hoped to see. I got so excited as we really had a very good view of it. Little did I know that by the time we departed Napo, we would have seen dozens of them! Arriving just at sunset, the view, as we came into the lagoon from the river, was lovely. A slight mist was rising from the water and the lodge and cabins were spread out on the shore in front of us. We made our way to the open air lodge, had a briefing along with a welcoming fruit drink, marked our bird lists and sat down to a very delicious dinner. What an exciting day this has been! Leaving the metropolis of Quito for the sparsely populated Amazonian jungle and all the wonders it has to show us was truly a “two different worlds” experience. With very little ambient light, we could see the stars as we used our flashlights to make our way to our cabins. Our bed had been turned down and the mosquito net put in place while we had dinner. We showered and laid out our things for rising early. Saturday, Sept. 24: Napo Wildlife Center, Amazon: Oscar knocked on our door with a wake-up call at 4:30 a.m. Breakfast was at 5 and we carried our gear with us to breakfast as we left immediately afterwards to head to the canopy tower. Dawn was breaking as we took the dugout across the lake to the trail that led to the tower. A small amount of light entered the rainforest as we quickly followed Oscar and Charlie. When I looked up at the structure next to the giant kapok (cieba) tree, I could not believe my eyes! A staircase 10 stories high! Swallowing my fear of heights, I collapsed my ever-present walking staff, stored it in my daypack, and told myself that I could do this. Oscar and Marco led off with Mary and Jack behind them. Grasping the handrails I looked straight ahead and began the climb. Looking down would have been disastrous! Charlie was right behind me with a litany of encouraging words. Jim brought up the rear as he had stayed on the ground to film as Marco fairly ran up the tower! Finally, I made it to the top leaving fingerprints in some of the sections of handrail. The platform, built around the crown of the kapok tree has a sturdy railing. There were even two plastic outdoor chairs up there. In the two and a half hours on the platform, we were continually amazed at the birds around us. One of the most magnificent was the Cream-colored Woodpecker. Seeing a flock of Blue-and-Yellow Macaws flying was awesome because they were actually flying below us so that we could look down upon them! The early morning sunlight glinting on their wings was spectacular! Descending was a bit easier and we stopped for a snack of water, fruit and cookies when we reached the forest floor. We got a glimpse of the Golden-mantled Tamarind which is the logo for NWC. Then we spent an inordinate amount of time trying to spot a tapaculo which when it finally came into view darted across the path so fast that Marco named it the “jet tapaculo.” The temperature was rising and the humidity was about 95% so we headed back to the dugout and across the lake to the lodge. I went straight to a cold shower. After lunch we rested for about two hours before heading out in the canoe for a “butt numbing” three hour birding ride. It was great because we saw about a dozen Hoatzins along with kingfishers, potoos, caiman and herons. Even though we found the dugouts to be uncomfortable, we were happy to have the opportunity to experience the area. Evening found us in the bar, having a drink, marking our lists and enjoying each other’s company. Even though we are essentially living in each other’s back pockets, we are finding that all of us are extremely compatible. I often think about how different this would be if we were doing it with strangers. Traveling with good friends is certainly the best way to go! This trip is going to spoil us forever! Sunday, Sept. 25: Napo Wildlife Center, Amazon: Our wake-up call was not until 5 this morning! By 6 we were in the dugout as the sun was rising over the lagoon. Two and a quarter hours later we were at a steep muddy bank where we disembarked and climbed up to a path that would lead us to the clay lick where parrots come to drink and eat the minerals that are found in the clay. Parts of the path are paved with stones which makes it rather like a cobblestone walkway. It is irregular but keeps you out of the mud during the rainy season. There were two streams to cross on little bridges made of small poles laid horizontally. Not my thing, but I made it across. Charlie insisted on staying right with me although I think I could have made most of it on my own as I did have my staff. We arrived at the clay lick at 8:45 a.m. Normally the birds begin to arrive between 9-9:30, but today it was almost 11 before the majority of them came. This was due to the presence of a Black-and-white Hawk-eagle which was perched in one of the major trees near the lick. It was a beautiful bird and we enjoyed watching it but it was keeping the parrots away! The blind at the lick is large with outdoor chairs and several benches. While we were waiting, Oscar and Marco went off chasing another tapaculo as well as other birds. When they returned, Marco declared they had gone almost to Peru! But he had added quite a few new birds to his list and that made it worth the trouble. During our wait we also had cheese sandwiches, cookies and water which appeared miraculously out of a sack that Jorge had brought along. Finally the hawk-eagle departed and the birds which had been chattering in the canopy began to come down little by little. At first, just a few, then a few more warily making their way to the trees above the lick and pool of water below it. The chattering continued louder and louder until suddenly they all descended on the pool in a flurry! What a magnificent sight! Hundreds of birds taking off and landing in this small spot, wheeling back and forth somehow avoiding collision. The majority of them were Cobalt-winged Parakeets. After about an hour the onslaught slowed, and we left to walk through the forest to the village where there is an open-air community building. Our lunch was waiting for us. But before I could eat I really needed to get rid of some of the water I’d been drinking all morning. Getting up my courage I headed for the outhouse. What a surprise! This was the first outdoor latrine I’d ever been in that did not smell! An explanation on how it worked as well as instructions on how to use it were posted on the wall. This is truly recycling to the utmost! Our lunch was extensive. Baked chicken, well-seasoned potatoes and cauliflower, an apple and juice as well as lots of water. A sandwich and the apple would have been sufficient but that is not their way. After lunch, the local shaman, Domenic, arrived to spend some time with us. Jorge acted as translator for the shaman (Quichua to Spanish) and Charlie translated for us (Spanish to English). It was explained that the shaman lives at one with nature and uses the plants extensively in his work with his people; however, if he feels he is not able to help someone he quickly refers them to the nearest medical person. There is a cooperative effort between the natural healer and the healer who has been schooled. The shaman offered to do a blessing and Mary was unanimously elected to be blessed. (Note from Mary: I was pleased to participate in this general "cleansing" ceremony as the spiritual beliefs of native peoples are one of my interests.) It was fascinating to watch and Jim was allowed to film. When he had finished with Mary, Charlie asked if he was willing to do the same for Marco concentrating on Marco’s problem with hypertension. Graciously, the shaman worked to remove the negative energy from Marco as well. We again birded from the dugout as we headed back to the lodge, and this was the trip that netted an elusive lifer for Charlie! Since his first visit to Ecuador in 1993, Charlie has been tracking the Zigzag Heron, to no avail. This was his lucky day and we thought for a moment that he was going to jump right out of the canoe! It was 4:30 p.m. by the time we returned to the lodge. Just enough time for showers and a bit of rest before gathering for drinks and marking our lists. Dinner was again delicious. Since we were departing early the next morning, we settled our bar bill and tips for the staff before turning in. (See travel tips at the end.) V. Tinalandia and Sachatamia (Mindo) Monday, Sept. 26: Tinalandia : (http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/tinalandia/html/about.html ) With a certain sadness, we arose at 5 a.m. in order to depart Napo Wildlife Center at 6. Jorge and Motocito paddled constantly and it only took 100 minutes to reach the communal area called the Warehouse where we climbed the mud bank (with help) and retraced our steps through the forest before reaching the sandbar where the Giant Otter was waiting to speed us up-river to Coca. Two hours later we said good-bye to Jorge who had again driven the Giant Otter to our destination. Oscar stayed with us at the airport until our flight was ready to depart. We waited at least an hour in the crowded, hot room for our 30 minute flight back to bustling Quito. As we got off the plane, a stewardess handed each woman a rose. Ecuador is known world-wide for its rose production and exportation. What a nice gesture! Edwin was waiting for us with our luggage he had collected from the Sebastian, and we headed out toward our next destination – Tinalandia. But first there was that little matter of lunch. We stopped at a small restaurant along the roadside and had delicious local food that was so low-priced I was convinced the menu was incorrect. Whenever we’ve stopped at roadside places they have been spotlessly clean and the first thing that is put on the table is the delicious roasted crunchy corn which they call tostado. I again ordered Locro - the potato, cheese and avocado soup - and shared some big hominy and pork fat with Mary. No, these meals are not low fat or low carb! But they are delicious! As we were eating, a monstrous thunderstorm came up and dropped an incredible amount of rain in a very short time. The thunder and lightening were prodigious and we were glad to be inside! The road to Tinalandia is hair-raising! It is the main road between Quito and Guayaquil: One lane in each direction filled with heavy-duty trucks, huge public buses, slow-moving ancient vehicles and such. We started out in fog and rain with bumper-to-bumper traffic, passing on curves and solid yellow lines – rather frightening, to say the least. Marco, who is a driver for Costa Rica Expeditions, was scared out of his wits as he was riding shotgun up front with Edwin. He tried birding out of the side window to distract himself and the rest of us, who were probably just as frightened as he was. We finally made it, thanks to Edwin’s patience and good driving. Tinalandia is a lodge that was begun in 1950 by German immigrants. It was named Tinalandia because the owner’s wife was Tina. The place reminds me of an old dowager who is a bit down on her luck, but the birding is supposed to be very good and this is one of Charlie’s favorite places. Over the years he has become friends with the present owner, Sergio Platoff, who is Tina’s son. It’s been a long day so after marking our lists and having dinner, we all turned in for some much needed rest. Tuesday, Sept. 27: Tinalandia: We were allowed to sleep in! It was wonderful to get eight hours of sleep. The dining area is open air with feeders nearby so birding and breakfast made for a great combination! After breakfast we began a walk that lasted till lunch time. The property is comprised of grazing area for a few cows and horses, a small pond and a nine-hole golf course that appears to no longer be in use, although the website indicates it is playable. At the top of a knoll there is a small cemetery where Tina and several others are buried. This walk netted us a number of new birds. Plus Jack made a new friend – a lovely black horse. Lunch was delicious. The three ladies who lovingly run the place served us steak with coffee sauce. Maya who had made the sauce shared the ingredients with us, admitting that she really did not have a recipe. She’s a natural born cook, in my opinion. Charlie gave us free time till 4 p.m. at which time those who wanted to go would bird the Old Chiriboga Road. Mary and Jack decided to continue their “independent study” so Jim and I set out with Charlie, Marco and Edwin. It was a fun time and we had delightful sightings including Lyre-tailed Nightjars, but that meant we were driving back to Tinalandia on that awful road at night! Jack and Mary waited for us at the dining area with a bottle of red wine so we quaffed a glass as we marked our lists and enjoyed dinner. Bats were making a foray at the hummingbird feeders. Jim turned on the infrared mode of his video camera and filmed them. They were so fast that it was difficult to see them with the naked eye, but looking at the film, they were amazing! Wednesday, Sept. 28:Sachatamia Rainforest Reserve, Mindo: (http://www.sachatamia.com/home.shtml) After a hearty breakfast we settled our bills and said good by to the lovely ladies who had taken such good care of us. Edwin loaded our picnic lunch into the van as Jim, Jack and Charlie were filming the ladies who giggled the entire time. It’s heartbreaking to see what is physically happening to the lodge, but these ladies made our stay very worthwhile. We headed to a protected area known as Pedro Vincente Maldonado Reserve where we birded the morning away. Just because it is a reserve does not mean it is totally protected. We had to deal with dump trucks coming in and out on the dirt road as they dug out a gravel pit in the reserve! Very dusty, to say the least. We visited a campesino caretaker on a farm hoping to get a glimpse of a bird whose name I have forgotten. We did not see it, but we did come away with several cherimoya and guavas which were delicious. Edwin found a protected area for our picnic lunch. Maya had made us chicken sandwiches when we told her that we did not need a full meal. They were absolutely delicious! While we were eating, Jim spotted a pair of Choco Toucans in the distance. It was a lifer for all of us – even Edwin and Charlie – and with the scope we all got very good views. After lunch we headed to Sachatamia Lodge for the next two nights. It is a charming place with cabins as well as rooms in the main building. Since we were the only ones there, we were all housed in the Lodge together. Jim and I had the bedroom on the third floor. Also located there is a large sitting area where we gathered to mark our lists. The others had rooms on the second floor. At 2:15 p.m., soon after we arrived, Charlie told me we had an opportunity to go to a Cock of the Rock lek, that the trail would be a bit difficult, but that Edwin knew it well, and he thought I could manage it. We had the option of going that afternoon or the next morning as the birds come to the lek at sunrise and sunset. Mary and Jack declined the offer since they had seen this bird in Peru. Thirty minutes later, Jim, Charlie, Marco, Edwin and I were in the van heading to the farm of the people who own the land on which the lek is located. Jim and I covered the fee of $5 per person for all of us, and with one of the farmer’s sons to lead the way, we were on the trail by 3 p.m. Actually the trail was not too bad except in four places where it was extremely steep and very muddy. My new knee held up well. Charlie insisted that Jim go ahead because he would stay behind to help me through the rough spots. At one place, we needed Marco’s help as well. I was extremely glad to have my walking staff on this hike! It took us an hour to get up the trail. Then we sat and waited for another hour for the birds to come. As I sat on a damp board during that hour, I prayed fervently that we would have the opportunity to see this often elusive bird. Right at 5 p.m. a male Cock-of-the-rock flew in with its raucous cry. Charlie aimed the scope at it and then held my head to the eye piece. Normally when one looks at a bird in the scope, one takes a quick look and moves so that the next person can have a chance. Well, this time he knew that Jim had the video camera to his eye and Marco was glued to his binoculars so according to Charlie, I was to stay glued to the scope. Never in my life have I seen such a shade of red! The head and crest as well as the chest and most of the back of the male are brillant red! The remainder of the bird is white and black. What a magnificent creature! We stayed watching for about 15 minutes, and then left in order to get down most of the trail before it got totally dark. Going down the trail was much worse than going up, especially in the muddy, steep places. My boots were covered with mud but I really did not care! Without Charlie’s help in those steep places I would have been coming down on my backside. He is a fantastic guide and friend! In order to help me down, he essentially braced with his booted foot in the mud so that I could put my foot against his and steady myself to keep from sliding. On the ride back to Sachatamia I was overcome with emotion at having seen this beautiful bird. Dinner was excellent: soup with popcorn, delicious trout with vegetables and cake for dessert. We shared our experience with Mary and Jack who recalled their sighting several years ago in Peru. This was the night that Marco, who had been having the time of his life, looked at us plaintively and asked, “Where are we going next year?” He has been a delight, and we are so pleased that he was able to come with us! Thursday, Sept. 29: Sachatamia Lodge: An opportunity to sleep in since breakfast is not until 8 a.m. today! I was up at 6:30, down for a cup of coffee, and out to sit and commune with the hummingbirds at the many feeders. They are incredible and there are so many different ones! When we were planning this trip, Charlie said to me that the hummer feeders in Ecuador would make the ones in Costa Rica look empty – well, he’s right! I’ve fallen in love with the little Booted Racquet-tails and the Woodstars. After breakfast we set off on a great trail located behind the lodge. The weather was perfect – bright sun but still pleasantly cool. Birds were everywhere. As we headed down toward the river, Edwin spotted a little Cloud Forest Pygmy Owl which accommodated us by just sitting there while everyone got super shots with their cameras. The hike made the most of the morning - two hours out and one-and-a-half back. On the way back, it became hot and quite humid, but after all this is the cloud forest. When we got up to the room, we opened the window and looked down on one of the feeders where several tanagers were enjoying the bananas. A Brown Violetear hummer sat on a branch between making forays to catch insects. That’s right! They don’t just drink sugar water or nectar from flowers, but get their protein from catching insects acting much as flycatchers do. It was fun to just lean out of the window and watch these colorful birds. Our delicious lunch was Ecuadorian Crepes, which contained thin slices of ham wrapped around steamed broccoli, covered with shredded cheese and placed under the broiler till the cheese was bubbly and golden. Yummy! In the afternoon we headed off again for some birding with our big find being the Golden-headed Quetzal. We looked again for Lyre-tail Nightjars but were unsuccessful this time. On the way back we stopped in Mindo-town for Charlie and Marco to call home. Every so often they each needed to check on their families and since public phones were available in Mindo, this was the time to do it. This has been another wonderful day in a beautiful country. Our dinner was again outstanding, and I almost fell asleep while we were doing our bird list. VI. Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve and Farewell Friday, Sept. 30: Bellavista Cloudforest Reserve, Tandayapa: (http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/bellavista/eindex.htm) After breakfast, we headed to the Los Bancos area to bird returning for lunch at noon in order to check out and more on to the last place on our itinerary before returning to Quito. The 14 km. drive took two hours because we were birding. Arrived at Bellavista mid-afternoon. Compared to Sachatamia it is a rather funky place. Owned by an Englishman who has been here many years, it apparently caters to student groups more than anything else. We are staying in a house called Bamboo on the upper level. Edwin, Charlie and Marco are on the lower level. Mary and Jack are in a brick and half-timbered place called the German House. Dinner did not compare with our previous meals, but it appeared that they cook in one building and then bring the food to the dining area. Since it is cold and damp, the food gets cold on the way over. Our room is cold and damp as well and the little space heater does not work. Saturday, Oct. 01:Bellavista: It took me a long time to get to sleep last night because I was so cold. The dampness of the cloud forest seeps into this bamboo construction and consequently into everything else. In addition to my silk long underwear and nightgown, I slept in my cashmere sweater and fleece vest! We headed out after breakfast to bird a nearby road which rewarded us with a wonderful sighting of the Plate-billed Toucan. We also saw the Powerful Woodpecker after hearing it for several days! Back for lunch we discovered a large group of students who have arrived for the weekend. They are staying in the dorm-type rooms that are in the same building as the dining area. As a group we decided not to go out for the afternoon but to have a wind-down time. Marco desperately needed sleep, Jim needed a shower, Mary and Jack wanted to rest and I needed to get warm! One of the workers had tried to get our space heater working but to no avail. Mary and Jack offered to loan us theirs since their brick house seemed not to be as damp as the bamboo one. We gratefully accepted their offer! First we put the heater in the bathroom to warm it up for Jim’s shower and then moved it to the bedroom which allowed me to finally get warm. Sunday, Oct. 02: Hotel Sebastian, Quito: We were up at 5:30 a.m. and out birding with Charlie and Mary. It’s Jack’s turn to sleep in! We saw, among other things, an antpitta, a Crimson-backed Woodpecker and a Crested Quetzal which Jim managed to film beautifully. After breakfast, we checked out and began the drive back to Quito. Not ten minutes on the road Marco spotted a potoo on a tree. Those birds are the most difficult to spot! All through the trip he has done an incredible job of spotting. We arrived back at the Hotel Sebastian around noon, checked in and had a delicious lunch. We bid Edwin a fond farewell after lunch, giving him his tips and a T-shirt to thank him for taking such good care of us. He is unable to be at the Farewell Dinner tonight, but Mercedes and Xavier will be with us. The afternoon was spent organizing ourselves. Tomorrow Mary, Jack and Marco return home, Jim and I head to the Galapagos Islands and Charlie will have a few days of down time at the home of Mercedes and Xavier before his next group arrives. We will leave all our cold weather clothes in storage at the Sebastian while we are in the Galapagos. Mercedes and Xavier arrived at 6:45 p.m. and we headed to the Olga Fisch Folklore Shop and Museum. http://www.olgafisch.com/ Olga was a Hungarian artist who came to Ecuador in 1939. She collected indigenous art and encouraged the Indian artists. Her son and granddaughter now own and operate the shop and museum. It is definitely worth a visit! We admired much in the store, bought a few items and then followed Xavier upstairs to visit the museum which is actually Olga’s private collection. Outstanding artifacts and the display was extremely well done. The restaurant next door is part of the ethnic complex, beautifully decorated as well as serving delicious food. We began with canelazo drinks and continued through one of the very nicest meals we had while in Ecuador. After dinner, Xavier took us on a night tour of the Old City where many of the historical buildings are lit up. We stopped for photos on one of the many hills overlooking a part of the city which sparkled with many lights – a fitting end to a wonderful trip in an enchanting country. Monday, Oct. 03: We breakfasted together for the last time. Xavier arrived to take us to the airport and Charlie tagged along for the final goodbyes. Mary and Jack returned to Florida as Jimmy and I flew west to Guayaquil and on to the Galapagos. Later that day, Marco headed back to Costa Rica. As we parted, Mary remarked to me that this was the “gold standard” trip and she doubted that we would ever do one quite this special. She may be right, but I’m surely going to try to plan another just this good or better!
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