An Unforgettable Journey to a Rich Land --Part III

Trip Report by Ruth Marie Lyons ( March 28-29, 2001)

Photographs by Jack Dodge

III. MONTEVERDE LODGE

Wednesday, March 28:  Well, it didn’t rain as much during the night, but we had a downpour at breakfast.  We managed to get across the river for our planes which came at 8:30 or so.  They sent a 7 passenger twin engine and a single engine plane.  Jim, Charlie and all the luggage went in the single engine and the rest of us in the larger plane.  We flew into the international airport and waiting for us was Luis Morales, our driver.  What a nice bus!  Big enough for us to move about, air conditioned with a cooler stocked with ice and bottles of water.  CRE had scored again! 

Headed out about 9:30 for Monteverde.  At 11, we stopped for a bathroom/snack break before bus began the difficult climb up the dirt road to our destination.  During the drive, we heard about the building of the Pan American Highway as we traveled on a portion of it.  Then as we began the climb on the dirt road, Charlie told us the history of the Quakers from the US who settled the area after WWII.  It seems that these folks had served as medics during the war but refused to do service during the Korean Conflict so they were told they were welcome no longer in the US.  They packed up and trekked down through Central America looking for a place to settle.  The Monteverde area was perfectly isolated and they began to farm and raise dairy cattle.  The cheese, ice cream and other dairy products available in the area all come from their businesses.   

We also saw our first living fences on this drive.  Trees that were along the edge of property were used to string barbed wire.  When the trees were far apart, branches were cut and stuck into the ground intermittently along the wire between the trees.  They subsquently took root.  Besides serving as fence posts, the trees are windbreaks and some offer fodder for cattle. 

It took about 2 hours on the dirt road and we arrived at 1:30.  Went straight to lunch which the restaurant held for us and of course it was delicious again.  The meals are not normally served family style at MV Lodge, but in order to speed things up, Charlie asked for them that way a couple of times.  The restaurant is a bit more formal and larger than the one at Tortuga Lodge.  The waiters wear black pants and white shirts with black ties - very elegant. 

At 3, we headed out on a hike with our fearless leader.  We went through a forest that was part of a farm.  Besides all the birds, we saw a coatimundi, an agouti, and an arboreal porcupine with a prehensile tail!

 Back with just enough time to shower before dinner.  Here at MV Lodge there is a posted menu.  I had escargot, langoustine thermidor, wonderful vegetables and rum raisin ice cream for dessert! 

The other attraction that evening was the television in the bar, viewable from some points of the dining room.  A very interesting and intense soccer match was taking place between Costa Rica and Trinidad/Tobago, part of the qualification rounds for the World Cup.  As the dining hour wound down, we noticed our young waiters drifting toward the bar.  All at once there was a hush and then a cheer - Costa Rica had scored.  And Costa Rica ended up winning that game. 

Monteverde Lodge advertises that they have internet connections for their guests.  After dinner I attempted to get on line, but all four computers were commandeered by teenaged boys who were all trying to outdo each other bragging about the machines they had at home and what all they could do with them.  There was so much testosterone flying around that small room, I fled! 

* Back to Getting There
* Back to Tortuguero 
* Forward to Montana Savegre
* Jump to Corcovado
* Jump to Sarch and San Jose

Thursday, March 29: I slept fitfully.  Jim slept soundly.  No rain sounded on the roof when I awoke.  We were out early birding around the grounds of the Lodge.  In for breakfast before heading to the Butterfly Farm and Research Center which was a very interesting place.  The owner/manager had a delightful sense of humor and his presentation was informative and droll.  A young volunteer from Belgium actually took us into the enclosures where we were able to get very close to the beautiful blue morphos as well as many other species of butterflies.   

Leaving the butterflies in all their splendor, we drove a short distance to a co-op where we purchased coffee and jars of the wonderful pineapple/papaya jam that we'd been having each morning.  The trees around the co-op afforded a few new birds before it was time to leave.  Earlier that morning, Charlie had come to me to suggest a different route for our long day tomorrow.  Since he and Luis were the ones who knew the roads and the traffic, I told him we were in their hands and trusted them to choose the best route.  I knew they would take good care of us. 

After lunch it was time for the Cloud Forest Walk.  At the time that walk seemed a bit strenuous due to the intense humidity.  (A week later we would realize that this was a very easy stroll.)  At one point each time I put my binoculars up to my face both my glasses and my binoculars fogged up!  But it was very enjoyable most of the time.  The afternoon sightings included a female resplendent quetzal with a fly-by from the male.  Charlie assured us that there would be more in the Savegre area which was our next destination. 

Since we didn't get back to the hotel till 6:15 and supper was at 7, we delayed our list marking till after the meal.  It was noisy in the dining room so we moved to a small meeting room nearby.  All of us were exhausted, even Charlie, although I don't think he would have admitted it.  We sank into the low chairs and somehow managed to get through the list.  At one point I thought I was going to fall asleep before we finished. 

The staff will prepare an early breakfast for us at 6 a.m. tomorrow  as our fearless leader wants us on the road before 7 a.m.for the long drive to the Chacon Farm where we are to spend the next three nights. 

Before we fall into bed we get the bags in order because those need to be ready when we go to breakfast.

Next stop: Montana Savegre ...