Wednesday, May 7, 2003  Wilson Botanical Gardens (aka Las Cruces)

Our itinerary for the day read as follows:  After breakfast, you will start your drive on the way South to San Vito de Java and Las Cruces Biological Station.  You will stop on the way at Finca Los Cusingos

  This day came to be known as the “Day of Spectaculars.”  Right after breakfast, as we were loading up to depart, Jim ran back up the hill to take one more look for the quetzal.  It was waiting for him.  What luck!  So he got a bit more footage on the video before it flew. 

The "Vista del Valle" was well-named.

As we wound our way up out of the Savegre Valley on the bumpy dirt road, we ran into a light rain shower.  It was just enough to cause the formation of a complete rainbow because the sun was shining at the same time.  Such a good omen!  Reaching the Pan American Highway we headed south.  At one point along the way, IF the weather is clear, one is able to see both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  The operable word here is IF and today it was crystal clear!  Not only could we see both oceans but on the Pacific side we could see all the way south to the Osa Peninsula.  Even Charlie was excited because he said it was the first time he and Niño had ever seen the Osa Peninsula from that vantage point!  

We stopped at a little roadside café called “Vista del Valle” for a bathroom and Coke break.  There was a spectacular view as far as the eye or binocular could see.  Lots of birds there as well as a small collection of orchids to admire.   

San Isidro de El General was the city where we left the Pan American Highway and headed off on a less traveled road.  This was the way to the little settlement of Quizarra de Perez Zeledon and subsequently the road to Los Cusingos.  Yes, I’m hearing your inquisitive minds asking the question, “What is Los Cusingos and why is it so important?” 

This tiny building on the grounds of Los Cusingos was Dr. Skutch's study. The home is in the background.

Los Cusingos is a magical place.  Los Cusingos is a haven for birds and creatures.  Los Cusingos is a place of natural wonder.  But most of all, Los Cusingos has been the home of Dr. Alexander F. Skutch since 1941.  Dr. Skutch, or Don Alejandro as I prefer to call him, is a renowned neotropical ornithologist who was born and educated in the state of Maryland but has lived all his adult life in tropical Central America - most of it in Costa Rica.  Author of more than 30 books and untold contributions to journals and magazines, Don Alejandro is probably best known as one of the co-authors of The Guide to Birds of Costa Rica or “Stiles and Skutch” as it is known in birding circles.

 Although he is 99 years of age, Don Alejandro spends six to nine hours a day reading and studying!  His body is weakening and his hearing has deteriorated, but his mind is still “steel-trap active.”  When he is able, he receives guests on the front porch of his little board-and-batten home he built many years ago.  Since the death of his wife, Pamela Lankaster, two years ago, he has had a local couple living with him.  Charlie went ahead of us to check on Don Alejandro’s condition and came back with a big smile on his face.  We were really, really blessed.  He was in his office and willing to see us. 

As we gathered in front of the porch, Don Alejandro’s attendant wheeled him out.  He was dressed in a freshly ironed long sleeve white shirt, gray sweat pants and Keds.  Charlie positioned himself on one side and motioned for me to come stand on the other side of his wheel chair.  I had brought gifts: one of our trip T-shirts, a khaki long sleeve work shirt and a box of English shortbread, which Charlie had told me was a favorite.   

He commented on each, saying of the khaki shirt, “This is the type shirt I favored for field work.  They are very durable.”  

All of a sudden he turned, looked at me, and said, “This is Ruth Marie?”  I answered, “Yes Sir, I am Ruth Marie.”  Then he said, “Thank you for the cards! I like getting mail.”  Smiling I replied, “I’m so glad they got to you.”  To which he answered, “They are all on my desk!”  The look in his eyes when he made the connection between me and the cards I’d sent was priceless and so very touching!  He was, at that time, less than two weeks from his 99^th birthday, which was May 20th! 

Prior to arriving we had discussed whether or not to ask him to sign our books.  The decision had been made that we would not request that because we did not want to tax him unduly.   Well, the next thing he said was, “Are there any books for me to sign?”  Dick and I had brought ours along just in case.  It was laborious work for him but his signature is legible and when he handed the book back to me, he said, “It’s not very good but it’s the best I can do at my age.” 

 
Ruth Marie gets her Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica signed by its revered co-author.

When he finished Dick’s, he asked if anyone had any questions. You could see that he was enjoying having us standing in front of the little porch like a group of students.  So we asked what was his favorite bird.  He told us that the Golden-naped Woodpecker was his favorite because of the way they took care of their young.  He also said that he did not like birds of prey except for the Laughing Falcon.  On his farm birds of prey often killed songbirds for food but the Laughing Falcon took out the snakes, which also went after the small song birds. 

The only bird book you'll need for Costa Rica.

His books are wonderfully written and cover both natural history and philosophy.  Most widely known is A Naturalist on a Tropical Farm, in which recounts how he came to live in the valley and start Los Cusingos.  He tells about sitting in his blind for hours on end watching a particular family of birds, making notes and drawings to include in other books, about walking in the forest and the birds that would accompany him.  There is an especially enticing chapter about an antbird who would always go with him on the trail because his footsteps stirred up the insects that the antbird ate. 

We took a short walk in the forest on one of the trails - one that Charlie had done many years ago when, as a university student, he came with Gary Stiles to work with Dr. Skutch on the book.  It was a real walk down memory lane for him.  We had good luck with a manikin and an  antbird, the kind that used to accompany Don Alejandro on his walks in the forest! 

We returned to the caretaker’s cottage where the bus was parked and had our picnic lunch.  There was far too much food so Niño collected the fruit, packets of cookies and containers of juice that remained and then left the group for a few minutes.  As the bus pulled out onto the local road to leave Los Cusingos, we passed a tiny house.  There on the porch, waving to us and enjoying juice and fruit were three small youngsters.  This was not the last time we would experience what a great guy Niño was. 

We continued south to the town of San Vito and Wilson’s Botanical Gardens, our home for the next three nights.  It was drizzling rain as we pulled into the property.  Charlie got our keys, found out that we were practically the only visitors and gave us about an hour to rest before it would be time for dinner. 

Our accommodations were named after tropical plants instead of being numbered.  With lovely hardwood floors, tile baths and balconies that face into the mid-level of the forest, what more could we wish for.  There was time to share a pre-dinner drink across the balcony railing with Mary and Jack as we watched numerous birds coming in to roost for the night. 

The dinner-plate-size bloom, left, on the vine on the way to the dining room smelled like rotting meat. The passion flower vine, right, was more inviting.

Dinner, marking bird lists and off to bed.... it’s been a long and marvelous day and we’re up at 5 a.m. again tomorrow.  It should be another interesting day because we will meet Alison and Michael Olivieri, friends of Charlie who have retired and moved from the US to San Vito, Costa Rica. 

Dr. Alexander Skutch, co-author of the Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica, in the office in his home. He died about a year after this, just short of his 100th birthday.

After dinner and marking lists tonight no one seemed in a hurry to leave the group so we sat around chatting with various ones telling jokes.  It was a nice interlude while the rain continued to fall outside.  The evening turned quite chilly so we needed to use the blankets which were stored on the shelves in our rooms.  

Friday, May 9, 2003  Wilson Botanical Gardens (aka Las Cruces)
Out on the terrace with the birds before breakfast again.  And what a delicious breakfast we had!  Gallo pinto, cheese quesedillas, fresh tropical fruit and wonderful cornbread.  Very typical of this area and oh, so good.  Weather is just overcast today.  Most of the rain fell yesterday.

This was to be the day we visited a local market.  What can I say but “best laid plans.... etc.” When Marco and I set up the itinerary, it was decided that going to a local farmers’ market would be a great education and give us a diversity experience.  Of course, Marco and I assumed that since every town of any size in the Central Valley had a market day there would be one in San Vito as well.  I should have known not to assume! 

It was decided that Niño would bus those of us who wanted to visit the market into San Vito while Charlie would take the rest on a birding walk through a rather muddy area down toward the river.  What a laugh!  We drove into town looking for the market.  Niño would stop and ask someone and they would shrug.  Finally someone gave him some directions but when we followed those directions we came to a little open shed on one of the main streets where there were two guys setting up tables, a Mennonite with religious tracts and a hippy.  Laughing we made our way back to the Botanical Gardens and did a short hike in the gardens while Niño headed off to the river trail to tell of our adventure. 

Ruth Marie leads the way on a hike around the grounds after the failed shopping trip. A squirrel and a mot-mot were among the wildlife spotted.

After lunch and a bit of rest, we headed for the Olivieris’ home.  First we stopped at a lovely garden where we were allowed free access to bird, and where we saw a Rainbow Eucalyptus Tree whose bark literally is a rainbow of colors.   

The Painted Eucalyptus has colorful bark.

Alison’s and Michael’s brand new home fits beautifully into the landscape.  It is built on the side of a rise with a striking view of the valley.  As we entered the property we passed the caretaker’s home and then noticed off to the side of the new home, a small blue cottage.  This was the original house on the property when they purchased it.  Plans are being made to turn it into a guest cottage.  With three bedrooms, two and a half baths, a dream kitchen, living room, dining room plus loft area for offices and TV, the home also has a wonderful porch which extends the living space out into nature.  A perfect place to relax and bird at the same time.  There is a wonderful mixture of tile, stucco and native woods.  It is not huge but is just the right size for the two of them. 

Back to the Botanical Gardens for dinner and bird lists.  Time to pack up as we depart tomorrow morning heading back north on the Pan American Highway to San Isidro.

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